These are the acne treatments The Kit editors swear by

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Is it just us, or is this winter’s combination of tightly fitting N95 masks, eternally swirling stress and anxiety (which wave is this again?) and moisture-sucking cold air making it one of the worst skin months in recent memory? Whether you’re generally breakout-prone, enjoying the onset of adult acne or just experiencing a bout of site-specific maskne, we’re willing to bet you’re always intrigued to hear about how other people deal with breakouts when they rear their little (or not so little) heads.

The following editor-approved tips and product recommendations for treating acne are based on hard-learned lessons about what does and doesn’t work. Keep in mind, this not a list of the newest acne products on the market; it’s the best zit remedies of all time, as judged by a selection of The Kit editors ranging in age from 20s to 40s.

KATHERINE LALANCETTE, BEAUTY AND LIFESTYLE DIRECTOR

When you sense a breakout coming on, what’s the first thing you do?

“In the words of Elsa in Frozen, I ‘let it goooo.’ This is tough because my immediate reflex used to be slapping a spot treatment on anything remotely resembling a breakout, but as celebrity facialist Renée Rouleau taught me, that actually prolongs the problem. The infection can’t get through the skin, which is how it heals itself. Instead, it gets trapped under the crusty layer of dry skin you created with your spot treatment and the longer it stays in there, the more damaged the skin becomes, leading to more chances of scarring. I’m super prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so I try to follow her advice religiously and just leave breakouts alone.”

Over the years, have you figured out whether certain things make you break out?

“Stress is definitely a big one for me. That, and sugar — they usually come in tandem in my case (I can gauge my anxiety by how much baking I’ve been doing). Wearing a mask for long stretches also wreaks havoc on my chin and cheeks. So now, if I’m in a situation where I know I’ll have it on for a long time, I don’t wear any makeup underneath and I cleanse as soon as I can after removing it. I might also apply something preventative, like a few drops of Dermalogica AGE Bright Clearing Serum, which helps to clear the skin without drying it.”

What’s one zit remedy you’ve tried that you’d never do again?

“Anything that just makes my skin angrier and more inflamed, like ingredients that are very drying or super gritty exfoliants. It’s almost like I used to want to punish my pimples, but I’ve realized a gentler, more patient approach yields much better results. (A lesson applicable to many things in life.) I also do everything in my power to resist the urge to pop. That’s the absolute worst for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Have you ever tried professional treatments for acne?

“I did go see a dermatologist once when dealing with hormonal acne along my jawline that was quite painful and unrelenting. I was prescribed a retinoid cream which made my skin shed in sheets. It was as though I’d done one of those peeling foot masks but on my face — not good. (I am a fan of over-the-counter retinol a few nights a week, though, which is much more tolerable for me.) But ultimately, the real, lasting solution, in my case, came down to finding a hormonal birth control method that better agreed with me.”

What are your ultimate no-fail strategies for dealing with breakouts?

“For deep, angry cystic situations, I really like hydrocolloid patches. They absorb fluid (like pus and oil) from the pimple so they draw the infection to the surface faster. By morning, I notice my zit is flatter and less inflamed. They also speed up healing by keeping the breakout in a moist, protected environment, away from bacteria or makeup or fingers with a tendency to pick.

I also find that I tend to break out way less if I’m diligent about double cleansing and use a chemical exfoliant a few times a week. (I’m partial to Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50, but Pixi’s Glow Tonic or Bliss’s Clear Genius are also solid options. Important: I wouldn’t use this on the same nights I’m applying salicylic acid or anything else that can be irritating.) When you get down to it, three things cause pimples: oil, dead skin cells and bacteria, so prevention is all about keeping these in check.”

What products really work for you?

Dermalogica AGE Bright Clearing Serum, $95, sephora.ca SHOP HERE

“For a global, preventive approach, I really like the aforementioned Dermalogica serum. It banks on salicylic acid to unclog pores and niacinamide to brighten (yay for no scarring) as well as some soothing plant actives to reduce inflammation and maintain hydration.”

Starface Hydro-Stars, $20, starfaceworld.ca SHOP HERE

Starface Hydro-Stars, $20, starfaceworld.ca

“I love the Starface Hydro-Stars because they’re very cute and I find the star shape actually offers better grip than a traditional round shape. Especially great if you tend to toss and turn in your sleep — these will not budge. But if I have a work Zoom or something in person, I’ll use clear circular hydrocolloid patches — there are lots of options available at the drugstore or on Amazon. They’re super discreet and you can even apply makeup over them if you want.”

RENÉE TSE, SHOPPING EDITOR

When you sense a breakout coming on, what’s the first thing you do?

“I immediately drink a gazillion more cups of water because I always feel like breakouts coincide with the fact that I’m dehydrated. I also hold off on wearing any makeup, so I don’t agitate my skin, and pare back my skin care routine so my skin stays hydrated and happy.”

Over the years, have you figured out whether certain things make you break out?

“I’ve noticed that if I tend to eat too much ‘junk food’ (read: anything too salty, fried or sweet), I’ll break out the next day. I’ve also noticed that I tend to break out where I touch my face when I’m chasing deadlines, which is around my eyebrows and chin.”

What’s one zit remedy you’ve tried that you’d never do again?

“Drying it out with alcohol — it just ends up making my face produce more oil, which leads to more breakouts.”

Have you ever tried professional treatments for acne?

“Pre-pandemic, I religiously went to get a facial every month for a classic treatment that focuses on extractions and hydrating and calming my skin. Having said that, I feel like my skin has been clearer over the pandemic because I so rarely wear makeup anymore.”

What are your ultimate no-fail strategies for dealing with a breakout?

“Treating my face with love. With a smile on my face, I like to lightly massage with a gentle milky cleanser using my fingertips. I learned this from a Korean actress who says to always clean your face with a positive attitude because it will show on your face. Then I like to use a witch-hazel-based toner to calm down any redness. I’ll slather on a purifying clay mask and leave it on for 10 minutes. Then I’ll spritz on some hydrating mist and finish off with a gel moisturizer.”

What products really work for you when you break out?

Caudalie Instant Detox Mask, $48, sephora.ca SHOP HERE

Caudalie Instant Detox Mask, $48, sephora.ca

“Twice a week, or whenever I feel my skin feels clogged up, I do a little DIY skin care mixology in my bathroom. I mix a dime-sized amount of Caudalie Instant Detox Mask with a splash of their Vinopure Purifying Toner, which has salicylic acid in it, for an intense pore cleansing treatment. I apply it all over my face after cleansing and wait for about 10 minutes. Then I use water to massage my face before rinsing it off. My skin feels extra fresh and clean after this treatment.”

Tatcha The Water Cream, $90, sephora.ca SHOP HERE

Tatcha The Water Cream, $90, sephora.ca

“I’m a big believer in hydrating my combination and sensitive skin, no matter how oily it feels. I like to use a gel moisturizer that’s not too rich or heavy. That’s why I love the Tatcha Water Cream so much; it contains Japanese wild rose to tighten the pores and smooth skin texture, and it helps control excess oil. It feels like a burst of water and my face just drinks it up.”

POONAM CHAUHAN, ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

When you sense a breakout coming on, what’s the first thing you do?

“Let it be and not touch it or pick it! Occasionally, I’ll put a drying mask on (GlamGlow SuperMud works well as a spot treatment for me) and I’ll leave it on overnight and then wash off in the morning.”

Over the years, have you figured out whether certain things make you break out?

“Yes, I didn’t realize how internal it was for me until I saw a naturopath last year who helped me figure out how to heal my gut and lower inflammation, which in turn helped my skin too. It really helped me see what was going on with my skin on a holistic level.”

What’s one zit remedy you’ve tried that you’d never do again?

“I had a horrible experience with a microneedling session. I wanted to try it out to help clear my few remaining acne scars but it completely broke me out and my skin hasn’t been as nice as it was pre-microneedling. I know that microneedling has helped others with reducing acne scars and hyperpigmentation but I would definitely recommend doing thorough research beforehand in regards to your skin type and the person you’re going to.”

What are your ultimate no-fail strategies for dealing with a breakout?

“As soon as I notice an increase in breakouts I know that there’s something going on internally for me, so I try to avoid foods that cause inflammation and start paying more attention to what I’m putting inside my body and it usually helps calm down the breakouts. Oh, and reminding myself not to rest my chin on my hand when I’m working!”

What acne products really work for you?

Elemis Superfood AHA Glow Cleansing Butter, $48, elemis.com SHOP HERE

Elemis Superfood AHA Glow Cleansing Butter, $48, elemis.com

“Last year during quarantine, I had a virtual consultation with esthetician and facialist Vee Mistry (@_skinbyvee_) and it was truly life-changing. I saw her during a time period where my acne was at its worst and it felt unmanageable, but she helped me create a new skin care routine and gave me advice in terms of daily lifestyle habits. (She emails you all the notes and instructions from the consultation.) As soon I started using the products I ordered, I noticed a huge difference in my skin right away. I love this cleansing butter because it’s multi-functional — I can use it in the morning, at night, as a makeup remover and also as a mask! I love how it’s rich in AHAs, so it helps gently exfoliate my skin and brighten but also keeps it hydrated, balanced and clear.”

Jan Marini Transformation Face Cream, 140, skinbyvee.com SHOP HERE

Jan Marini Transformation Face Cream, 140, skinbyvee.com

“I really notice a difference in my skin when I don’t use this face cream. I use it at night and my skin always feels a lot smoother in texture when I use it and feels really plump and hydrated. It’s key for keeping my skin clear from breakouts.”

RANI SHEEN, EXECUTIVE EDITOR

When you sense a breakout coming on, what’s the first thing you do?

“Sigh, grumble, silently complain! There’s just no getting around it, an angry breakout lumbering your way is always a bit of a day ruiner.”

Over the years, have you figured out whether certain things make you break out?

“It’s all hormonal for me. At various points in the month my skin will be more or less greasy, irritable and inflamed, and that’s usually when I’ll see a small bit of congestion turn into an angry eruption. Now that I’m in my early 40s I realize that while my oily skin can be annoying breakout-wise, it also means I still have almost no wrinkles and great elasticity, so I’ve learned to love it.”

What’s one zit remedy you’ve tried that you’d never do again?

“I wouldn’t pay a lot of money for blue light treatments at a clinic; while it can be effective, it’s not a real fix — you’d have to keep going forever, basically, which is a huge money suck. I also wouldn’t go back on the pill as a way to control acne; when I decided to stop taking it after a few years, my skin was *mad* and I didn’t get my period for a year.”

Have you ever tried professional treatments for acne?

“Unlike Poonam, above, I’ve had excellent smoothing results with microneedling at a medi-spa and would definitely recommend it for anyone with acne scarring or just looking for smoother texture. But you should definitely have a thorough consultation first to see if it’s right for you and if it’s the right time for you do it.”

What are your ultimate no-fail strategies for dealing with breakouts?

“I’m very into using high-frequency the second I notice a hint of a red bump (more on that tool below) — it really works to ward off any kind of breakout. For a zit that seems like it wants to erupt, I’ll put on a hydrocolloid patch overnight to draw out the contents and leave it flatter and less angry by morning. (I like the super thin, Korean-made CosRx ones; they’re very cheap on Walmart.ca). And while I’ve learned not to squeeze or pick, a dab of Tata Harper’s Resurfacing mask followed by a warm shower or a warm washcloth compress can really help a late-stage spot along on its journey.”

“I’m very into using high-frequency the second I notice a hint of a red bump (more on that tool below) — it really works to ward off any kind of breakout. For a zit that seems like it wants to erupt, I’ll put on a hydrocolloid patch overnight to draw out the contents and leave it flatter and less angry by morning. (I like the super thin, Korean-made CosRx ones; they’re very cheap on Walmart.ca). And while I’ve learned not to squeeze or pick, a dab of Tata Harper’s Resurfacing mask followed by a warm shower or a warm washcloth compress can really help a late-stage spot along on its journey.”

What products really work for you?

Eternal Clear High Frequency Therapy Pro, $120, eternalclear.com SHOP HERE

Eternal Clear High Frequency Therapy Pro, $120, eternalclear.com

“I mentioned high frequency, above, which is oxygenating (i.e. bacteria-fighting) thermal energy delivered into your pores by a device. Years ago, I would go get facials from a lovely woman in a kind of strip mall spa, and she would use high frequency if I had a breakout and tell me about how she loved having the machine at her disposal and would use it all the time. Cut to Facebook serving me an ad for the suspiciously named “Eternal Clear,” which is essentially exactly the same tool. It is really a revelation for taking down a breakout without any drying or smelly or visible or sheet-bleaching effect of a topical product. I’ll use it every few days when I know my period is approaching as a preventative measure (plus the one above has anti-wrinkle action as well, which is equally welcome).”

Kate Somerville Eradikate, $36, sephora.ca SHOP HERE

Kate Somerville Eradikate, $36, sephora.ca

“Sometimes you want a straight-up zit-shrinking topical, and for that the sulfur-meets-salicylic potion Eradikate is my vote. Similar to Mario Badescu’s cult favourite Drying Potion (but with a higher concentration of sulphur, my favourite acne active), you dip a Q-tip past the clear bit into the pink bit, and dab it on the spot. It’s visibly pink and a bit stinky, but it really works to subdue an angry zit overnight.”

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