Skip Tahoe for these Sierra Nevada Mountain towns instead

In late 2022, Fodor’s released its “no-travel” list for 2023. Lake Tahoe appeared near the top, thanks to overcrowding that’s led to horrible traffic and associated air pollution (the fragile ecosystem is so overrun that the famous clear blue of the lake is threatened.) Yet even with many other places in the Sierra to check out, people have kept flooding Tahoe. A summer 2023 report included in the Lake Tahoe Destination Stewardship Plan revealed that over tourism continues to threaten the region’s fragile environment and strain local populations. 

Lake Tahoe’s crystalline waters and unparalleled mountain peaks are some of the most spectacular sites in California. But luckily, there’s a tapestry of destinations that can satisfy your craving for massive lakes, dense forest, fresh mountain air and even in some cases, snow sports. In addition to often being cheaper than Tahoe, these destinations have the added benefit of providing a guilt-free getaway — just make sure you don’t litter like 4th of July revelers or attempt to visit during a disaster or extreme weather, like these road trippers. 

Located in California’s least populated county, yet just 30 minutes away from South Lake Tahoe, Hope Valley stuns you into stillness with views that rival Yosemite’s valleys and imposing, distant mountain peaks that defy iPhone capabilities. Out here in the Sierra Nevada, the best thing to do is to be with the landscape. And the Bureau of Land Management, which oversees the land, allows for backcountry camping and array of activities to help you do just that.

In late spring and summer, you can fly-fish along the Carson River, hike to waterfalls and hot springs and search for hidden alpine lakes. Come fall, the valley’s dramatic display of color draws plein air painters and leaf peepers. In winter, the area transforms into a cross-country skier’s paradise; it’s also close to Kirkwood, a downhill ski resort that’s much more chill than Tahoe, but still legendary. 

While the region suffered in 2021’s Tamarack fire, as well as a particularly harsh winter in 2022, there are promising signs the area is ready to welcome back tourism in an eco-friendly way. The historic and rustic Sorensen’s Resort (briefly known as Wylder) is now under new management and rebranded as Desolation Hotel Hope Valley (it’s owned and operated by the same people who run Desolation Hotel in South Lake Tahoe). It has updated its amenities and enhanced its environmental impact while retaining the stewardship responsibilities of its predecessor and the quiet charm that has made the outpost a favorite for families for nearly a century.  

Nearby Markleeville, Alpine County’s biggest town and the seat of government, may still be small, but it has everything you need for a mountain getaway: a yoga studio, a couple of restaurants, a general store and a brewery. The landscape’s burn scars are dramatic and strangely beautiful, a constant reminder of the transformative effects of fire. Getting in the flow of mountain time is essential (and kind of the point): Because there aren’t many people around, you may have to wait a bit for your food, perhaps because the person cooking your meal is also a volunteer firefighter fresh off a rigorous training, as was the case at Cutthroat Markleeville Brewery when I visited.

People joke that Clearlake, CA puts “the country in Wine Country,” but Ashley Harrel, who covers California’s parks for SFGATE, makes the compelling case for giving the town’s namesake Clear Lake, purportedly the oldest lake in North America, a shot. In terms of size, the lake beats out Tahoe as California’s largest lake only on a technicality: Tahoe is bigger, but some of it resides in Nevada. Still, Clear Lake is big, and its size allows for a variety of water activities, including boating, jet skiing, kayaking and swimming. As an added perk, you have a climate that produces great wine without Napa Valley prices.   

While downhill skiers and snow boarders battle crowds and increasingly prohibitive prices, SFGATE photographer Douglas Zimmerman swears by cross-country skiing as a more approachable and less costly way to explore the snowy expanse of the Sierra. He recommends Bear Valley for its ample trails suitable for novices and its less crowded routes that avoid typical Tahoe traffic. Bear Valley’s appeal extends throughout the year as its winter wonderland turns into a hiking and mountain biking haven in the warmer months; in summer, the Bear Valley Music Festival also adds a cultural touch to the mountain experience.

Kyburz, down near Fresno, is so small you might blink and miss it. But the town is full of early California history thanks to its place as a stop on the Pony Express. It makes for a quiet, nature-filled getaway if you snag a rental cabin.

All of these towns enjoy fresh mountain air and proximity to lakes and the Yuba and American rivers, while the distinct seasons, yet (typically) moderate weather, draw outdoor enthusiasts all year round. 

Get packing, and get going!

This story was edited by Hearst Newspapers Managing Editor Kristina Moy; you can contact her at [email protected].